
This is a complete edited English edition of Z-RAM’s original video. Product versions, performance statements and promotional offers reflect the time of that recording.
Umarex HDR68/TR68 Part 1: PowerPin and preparation for more power
Welcome to the Z-RAM YouTube channel. Z-RAM is here and today wants to tune the Umarex HDR68/TR68 completely with you—everything that is possible.
Namely, it will install the PowerPin from the PowerKit. It will cut a hole for the Z-Extension or ASA-to-chamber adapter. Then it will install the tuning barrel and the Sniper Extension, and use Z-RAM’s Z-Drum so that you can also use the Z.68s projectiles with the HDR68/TR68.
Z-RAM would say it is time to get started right away. The work will start by installing the PowerKit, but only the pin from the PowerKit. Then it will drill the hole for the Z-Extension or ASA-to-chamber adapter and install the rest. Let’s get started now.

Opening the Umarex HDR68/TR68 housing
First of all, loosen the screws from the housing. Z-RAM has now loosened all the screws here. It has left them in place so that it does not lose them and knows where they go. Now the drum can come out, and those two screws up here have to be loosened.
Z-RAM has now loosened the screws here and removed this part from the front. The housing can now be opened, revealing the inner workings of the HDR68/TR68. Now this unit can come out.
That can be put aside for now; it is not needed just yet. Loosen all the screws here to open the part. Now this part can be removed, revealing the whole thing like this. Carefully take this out: it is under pressure.
Everything here is still the way it was. It is best to take a photo beforehand so that you know exactly what goes where, in case something comes out.
Umarex HDR68/TR68 PowerPin: more power and the shot-count tradeoff
The first thing Z-RAM would do is change the pin. The PowerKit is here for that. This is the new one with the hex key.
Z-RAM is not installing the valve. On the contrary, if there is one in here, it is removed so that there is no reduction here. This gives you more power, but maybe fewer shots. If that is not enough shots, you can install this part or the modified pin, but then you lose a few joules.
To unscrew the pin here, Z-RAM recommends a relatively wide slotted bit that fits perfectly into this pin. It should not be too thin; it should be as thick as possible.
This one here should be as thick as possible so that it sits as tightly as possible in the slot. If you have trouble unscrewing it, you should heat it up a bit with a heat gun or something similar; then it will be easier to unscrew. Otherwise, with such a thick screwdriver, it comes out much better.
It sits well. It fits well.
This pin is made of aluminum. If it is turned the wrong way, or the screwdriver is too thin, the slot in the aluminum pin is simply destroyed. Then it cannot be removed and has to be drilled out. But if the screwdriver is wide enough, it usually works quite well. Turn slowly. Push and turn at the same time; then it comes out easily.
Z-RAM got it out without heating it; the part had not been warmed up beforehand. But, as Z-RAM said, a bit that fits perfectly here is very important. One that is too thin would simply destroy this slot.
The item also included in the PowerKit fits here. Then it can be turned here. Z-RAM recommends a little threadlocker.
The pin is installed. The old pin is out. This works very well.
Umarex HDR68/TR68 valve removal and adapter fit
Next, this valve is removed. The part is opened for that; there is a valve in here. You can go in with a wide screwdriver and unscrew the part.
This part is now open. That means there is no reducer from the CO₂ capsule reducing the power here. There is not a block at the back like in the HDR50/TR50. Z-RAM’s Z-Extension now fits here, or its ASA-to-chamber adapter.
Preparing the Umarex HDR68/TR68 housing opening
Now the case has to be cut open here. For this, Z-RAM takes the barrel and everything out here and puts the housing back together. Stop.
It turns these screws in just a little so that they do not fly around. It is going to put this screw in right here.
Next, Z-RAM takes a drill or a cordless screwdriver with an attachment like this. This one can also do 16 millimeters; that is the width of this part or the Z-Extension. A hole like this, up to 16 millimeters—not like that or in any other way, but in the position the Z-Extension would normally occupy.
You have to hold it very tightly; otherwise, the case will open. Or you can clamp it in a vise.
A brief test: it needs a little more.
The rest can be cut off here.
There are also other ways to do this. Z-RAM has already made other videos about it: with a hand mill or a file. There are different possibilities. You just have to put a hole in here.
Reassembling the Umarex HDR68/TR68 and continuing to Part 2
That is what it looks like now. Loosen all the screws again. Next, the bolt goes back on. Put this piece back in place.
The next instruction concerns bringing this piece into position here; the exact action in this short phrase is unclear in the stored captions. Put it in here. Push this back in here. What matters is that this corner reaches in here. It is not doing that at the moment, so it is pushed back a little.
Put it back on here and tighten the screws here. Z-RAM has tightened all the screws and put the part back in here.
That is it for today. In this video, Z-RAM installed the PowerPin from the PowerKit and cut the hole for the Z-Extension or the ASA-to-chamber adapter. In the second part of this video, it will install the remaining parts and finally convert to HPA. It will also test both setups with the chronograph. Be sure to check out the second part. Subscribe to the channel so that you do not miss anything, and leave a thumbs up. Until next time—from Z-RAM.
Related reading: Umarex HDR68/TR68 PowerKit.68 V2: The 7.5-J and 16-J Offers Compared.
Current products — separate from the historical presentation

Z-RAM Starterkit: Z-Extension + Powerkit.68 V2 for Umarex HDR68 TR68, export valve 7,5j Version (30–40 J+)
This current Starterkit pairs PowerKit.68 V2 with Z-Extension for the 7.5-joule Umarex HDR68/TR68 starting version. It is the alternative to the 16-joule-version kit, not an additional set to buy with it. It contains accessories, not a marker.
View the current offer
Z-RAM StarterKit: Z-Extension + Powerkit.68 V2 for Umarex HDR68 TR68, export valve 16j Version (30–40 J+)
This is the corresponding current PowerKit.68 V2 and Z-Extension Starterkit for the 16-joule HDR68/TR68 starting version. Select the offer matching the actual version; the two Starterkits are alternatives. No complete marker is included.
View the current offerWatch the complete original presentation
The complete original video accompanies the text above.
▶ Play on YouTube🚀 Bring your HDR68 to 47 Joules with 12g co2 (Part 1) Install Power-Kit & Z-Extension Step by Step
Channel: Z-RAM
Related Z-RAM presentation
Part 2 follows the same original HDR68/TR68 presentation with its barrel and shooting-test section.
▶ Play on YouTube🚀 Bring your HDR68 to 47 Joules with 12g co2 (Part 2) Install Z-DRUM Barrel Sniper Extension 🚀
Channel: Z-RAM
Important Legal Notice
Laws and regulations governing the purchase, possession, installation, modification, and use of the products described on this page vary by country, state, and local jurisdiction and may change. Before purchasing, installing, modifying, or using any product, you are responsible for confirming that it is permitted in your location and for your intended purpose. Product availability or delivery does not mean that purchase, possession, installation, modification, or use is lawful in your jurisdiction. Z-RAM does not provide legal advice, and the information on this page must not be treated as legal advice. If you are unsure, contact the competent local authority or a qualified legal professional.
